Kotor i rodalies

Aquesta nit hem dormit a Tivat, una ciutat que combina les urbanitzacions a lo bruto d’alguns llocs de costa amb un port hiper pijo. Però el que realment atreu a molts visitants d’arreu del mon (en creuer, bus, avió o el que faci falta) es la badia de Kotor i les seves rodalies. La badia es un fiord que s’endinsa a la terra i que crea un paisatge que recorda als fiords de Noruega. Muntanyes escarpades, i mar a baix. Amb la diferència que aqui fa tanta calor que tothom es banya (de fet et munten una platja, restaurant o el que faci falta amb molts pocs metres d’espai), les aigues sou prou cristalines i està ple de turistes sobretot de paisos balcànics o eslaus: Sèrbia, Bòsnia, Rússia, Eslovènia, Lituània, Polònia, …. Això si, amb cotxe croat som pocs.

Hem intentat anar a Kotor (el poble principal) de bon matí però estava tant ple de turistes (hi havia un creuer atracat al minúscul port) que hem decidit anar a banyarnos una mica més amunt i després visitar el poblet de Perast. Fins ara ningú ens havia insistit per a comprar o utilitzar serveis turístics, avui ha estat el primer cop i de forma insistent! Com es nota que el 90% de la riquesa prové dels serveis! Perast era un poble minúscul, però amb 17 esglésies i 16 palaus amagats entre les cases. I dues illes just davant, suposem, plenes de turistes …

Després hem anat a donar la volta completa a la badia i ens hem desviat per veure dels pocs (per no dir els únics) mosaics romans del país. On el guia ens ha explicat en perfecte castellà tota la història de la vila romana. Per acabar ens ha indicat la carretera que haviem d’agafar per veure la vista de la badia sencera. Hem pujat i de baixada per tallar la distància, hem agafat el ferry que ens portava a 10 minuts de l’apartament. 4.5 euros de ferry per substituir el que en altres paisos faria un pont (4 ferrys que donen servei sense parar formen part de la ruta transadriàtica, que recorre tots els balcans al costat del mar).

Un cop reposats a l’apartament, hem pogut anar cap a Kotor, aquest cop si, amb molta més tranquilitat i amb prou llum per veure les esglésies ortodoxes, pujar una mica per la muralla, i sopar tranquilament en un dels carrerons de pedra. Kotor es molt recomanable, un casc antic amb carrerons i casetes de pedra. Llàstima del munt de botigues de souvenirs, moda i restaurants que tant et serveixen una pizza com un plat de musclos o un estofat de carn. El que queda clar però es que hi ha 2 Montenegros, el del sopar d’ahir per 15 euros, i del del sopar d’avui de 60 euros (i podriem haver gastat molt més). Cosa que xoca, sobretot quan avui hem descobert que el sou mitjà es menor als 500 euros nets al mes.

8 thoughts on “Kotor i rodalies”

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